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Friday, 7 March 2014

The Long History Of Jodhpurs


By Jerri Perry


Today jodhpurs are mainly worn for horseback riding, but throughout history they have been traditional oriental garb for men, part of military uniforms, and preferred wear for motorcycle police and Hollywood movie directors. They have even entered the world of high fashion now and then, depending on the whim of designers and the activities of high profile celebrities. Today they are worn for informal English-style riding, by child riders, and as formal show wear for Saddlebred competitions.

What became known as the jodhpur pant was loose at the hip and thigh, tight below the knee, and extended to the ankle. This style was traditional male garb in the orient and well-suited to riding, with freedom of movement for hip and thigh and a snug fit at the legs to give a good grip and minimize chafing. Modern stretch pants can give freedom of movement without the flare, which is why that distinctive look has disappeared.

The distinctive pant spread to England in the late 19th century, when Sir Pratap Singh of Jodhpur brought his polo team over for the Queen's Jubilee and won many contests. The Indian team wore their traditional riding pants, which caught on with novelty-loving, trend-following English players. They came up with breeches, which had a flared hip but stopped at mid-calf and were worn with tall boots, rather than the low shoes worn in India.

This adaptation was adopted by the rest of the equestrian world, especially after the 1920s when women began to ride astride. It became a familiar look for military staff officers in the west, in Nazi Germany, and in the USSR. Tall boots were part of this sartorial symbol of authority. Motorcycle police also stomp around in tall boots, but the fact that the flare was retained until recently made many think that they were wearing jodhpurs.

True jodhpurs, with a long, tight leg and cuffed ankle, became wear for children and for more informal occasions. Instructors like the fact that leg position can't be hidden when paddock boots are worn instead of taller ones, and many strict people think no child should wear black boots and breeches. The longer pants are better for working around the barn, too.

The long pants can be used with half-chaps or leggings, which cover the lower keg and strap under the paddock boot. This helps prevent rubbing against the stirrup leathers and give a neat look to a rider when mounted. The practice of wearing informal clothes for training and exercising saves expensive, highly-polished tall boots from excessive wear.

Jodphur construction includes knee patches, which offer further chafe protection and improve the rider's grip. Many also have a seat patch of some non-slip material to help the rider stay in the saddle. Modern styles may have the seat and the entire inner leg covered with leather suede or another material. Seams are on the outside of the leg, to minimize rubbing and extend the life of the garment.

Beige and white are the traditional colors, but colored and patterned jodhpurs are available for for fun and informal occasions. Saddleseat competition calls for dark-colored jods with flared cuffs that cover the heel of the rider's boots. Go online for all the new styles and features of this century-old style.




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